The Nikon D5100 and it’s included AF-S 18-55mm VR lens offer a host of new photographic and video tools including a 16.2 MP DX-format CMOS sensor, 4 fps continuous shooting and breathtaking Full 1080p HD Movies with full time autofocus.
Nikon D5100 Reviews
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Nikon D5100 Reviews
Outstanding Image Quality
Rating: 5 out of 5.
– Nikon D5100 Reviews – 
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Excellent Value
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The quality of the Nikon d5100 is Amazing!
(Electronics) Just take it for granted that this takes zaaming pictures under all conditions, including low light, and that it contains all the manual controls that you’d ever want. Instead, here’s some things that the camera does that you might not have heard about: * Built-in EyeFi support If you’ve used EyeFi SD cards before, you probably assumed that it would work with the D7000, since the D7000 now uses SD cards instead of CF. But not only do you not have to mess around with SD-to-CF adapters, the camera is actually EyeFi aware you can choose to have it upload or not upload on a slot-by-slot basis (so you might have it automatically upload the RAW files you saved to an EyeFi Pro card in slot 1, but not bother to upload the JPEGs you saved to the EyeFi Explorer card in slot 2), and there is also an icon that appears on the Info display to indicate that there are files waiting to upload, that the upload is in progress or disabled, etc. The Nikon Wifi adapter is going for $400. A 4GB, class 6 EyeFi card goes for $40. If you really want to move RAW files, snag the Pro version for $80. Yes, the Nikon adapter does things that EyeFi can’t, but if you just want to get your files onto a PC without pulling the card, why spend 10X the money? You’re stuck with the usual limitations of the EyeFi card, but I fully expect to use this feature a LOT with studio portraits yeah, it only takes 10 seconds to pull the card and have Windows recognize that you added it, then another 5 seconds to eject the card and stick it back in the camera. But if you just want a quick check that your exposure or focus is where you want it, wouldn’t you rather just hit a single key and see your last shot, then get right back into the flow? You may want to drop your JPEG file sizes to speed up the transfer. * In-camera RAW file processing The camera contains a ton of built-in settings in addition to the basics like Standard, Normal, Landscape, etc, you also get all the various Scene modes, which are basically variations on those main settings. RAW processing allows you to see how the shot would have looked had you used one of those other modes. In other words, you shoot in Normal, which basically applies no processing to the image, then select the RAW file, and choose how you’d like to adjust it. You can change the white balance settings, exposure, basic picture setting (landscape, portrait, etc), noise reduction, color space, and dynamic lighting. With the exception of the advanced details on the basic picture settings, you see a preview of how your change will affect the picture. If you like it, just hit EXEcute and it writes out a JPEG to your card. Don’t like it, just back out and nothing’s saved. This means that you don’t have to worry that shooting in Vivid is going to result in an oversaturated image, or you can punch something up even more after the fact. The only real drawback here to me is that it is going to kick out a JPEG, so if you’re planning on doing further editing in Photoshop, this may not be the best route. But if you’re just looking to go right from the camera to the web, or want to get an idea of how playing with custom settings will affect your shots, this is a massive shortcut to taking and then deleting a ton of shots. (And keep in mind that Photoshop will allow you to mess with most of these settings when importing RAW files anyway, and the plugin D7000-compatible RAW plugin had a release candidate posted yesterday, so you can finally open your RAW shots.) And a related feature that’s in most other Nikons, but that you might not know about you can define your own basic picture settings. Want something that’s super-saturated and super-contrasty? Just hit a few buttons, choose a name, and you’re done. On the older Nikons, you had to edit the basic profile itself, now, you can use one as a starting point and adjust from there. Much cleaner. * User-defined settings on the control knob Not as hidden as the first two, but I can’t emphasize how cool this feature is. Here’s the situation I was in last night I was shooting a singing contest in a dimly-lit venue. I was allowed to use a flash, but I didn’t want to constantly be blasting the singers while they were performing. I defined one setting as shutter priority, 1/60th, ISO Hi 2, center-weighted metering & focus, no flash. The second setting was automatic, ISO auto, full metering and autofocus, flash enabled. I’d take a couple shots in U2 with the flash, close the flash down and switch to U1 and shoot a half a dozen shots, then switch back to U2 and use the flash for a couple more shots. There was no fumbling for controls, no worrying that I changed the shutter speed without realizing it when changing between Auto and S every time I went from U2 to U1, all my settings were reset to where I put
Hi, i’m surprised by the image quality of the review of video quality… What lens have you used to film that? Thanks, Leandro.
Yea it shoots amazing video…. We used a Nikon 80-200 zoom… Thanks for the comment!
Hi friend, I love your blog!
What Cool Pictures! I especially like the pic of the little girl. So cute!
Tim, I think there is one important issue not mtineoned in this post Photographic Evidence .Although the RAW image isn’t directly affected by jpeg settings, they can really affect the RAW image you capture. If you regularly check the histogram for your image and review the image on the LCD screen, they reflect the jpeg settings in the camera. e.g. if the jpeg has its settings for contrast increased and you see a histogram which shows some overexposure, it is entirely possible that the RAW image is really less exposed. I found that in setting my capture by reading the histogram, I was reducing the exposure to keep the pixels in the histogram from climbing the right wall . When I opened that RAW image, it was a bit underexposed. When I went into the camera and reduced the contrast setting (on the neutral jpeg), I began to get more realistic readings from the histogram and, consequently, more accurately exposed RAW images. I had to expect the jpeg on the LCD to look more bland and not to let that deter me.The rationale I was taught for doing this, is that underexposed images which need to be lightened, accentuate any digital noise in the darker pixels. Since the darkest pixels are where digital noise lurks, if you brighten those pixels, you are accentuating the noise.Mary Lou